Just back from Japan where I sampled three iconic cities in 9 days.
I had several bucket list items to check off, and since I went with a very well-traveled friend, there were several times when we each ran off in different directions to go see what we wanted to see – when those items differed between us. Here’s a quick review of my items and some photos, to save those thousands of words…
Mount Fuji
As a nature and landscape photographer, mountain climber, and general adventurer, of course Mt Fuji was at the top of the list. I’m a pretty adventurous traveler, so I don’t often book those tour bus day trips that fall under the “easy” category. But this one suited me. Someone else drove (they drive on the other side of the road) and public transit doesn’t go up there, so it was the right choice. Here are the 3 viewing points I loved:
Oishi Park, on Lake Kawaguchi was a favorite for the foreground scenery. The light was low, catching all the colors nicely… but the mountain was shy and while we have a whole hour to wait, impatiently for it to show itself, it mostly refused. The lake was beautiful, and the souvenir shop was amazing, including ice cream in flavors like cherry blossom & matcha, Shine Muscat & Kyuhou grape. Mostly it had tons options for us to buy “Fujisan shaped things,” as the guide called them.
In the center of the green sitting space a group of young ladies sat, chatting energetically in Japanese. I caught the word “segoi” about 5 times between them. They were watching tourists, me among them, when I asked if I could stand beside the table to get the photo I wanted. They noticed my camera – “Segoi!” one of them said. I paused, unsure if they wanted to engage me, but they all kept looking at my camera like it was made of gold. “Cool and awesome camera!” one of them said in English. I smiled and thanked them.
A second location was the source of Mt Fuji spring water. Yes, I stood in line to get a bottle full direct from the mouths of three dragons. They like to decorate their spring water spouts this way, and it appears often at shrine washing stations. The view in this beautifully historic town was divine. The mountain didn’t cooperate exactly, but it was visible, like this, hanging over ancient style thatch roofs and waterwheels. Ponds were full of trout, and merchants sold wares along the road on the way in.
The last location was the best. The photo in the top of this post was also taken there. As well as this one. Arakura Fuji Sengen Shrine, about hours from Tokyo
I loved the lanterns, but they weren’t specifically on my list. I had a rough idea that i wanted photos of some of the stone lanterns in the shrines, but these were far prettier in photos. Gray stone is hard to photograph in a gray city under medium light.
Sakura – The Beloved Cherry Blossoms!
My second bucket list item happened on day one – Sakura! Japanese cherry blossoms were a distant dream, because we scheduled just a touch early for them… but they were also early this year – showing up in March instead of April. These were all taken at Shinjuku Gyoen, right in the middle of Tokyo. An oasis of green and restfulness amid the bustle of Shinjuku, the bustling shopping district of Tokyo.
Shrine Highlights – most famous 5 of the dozens I visited.
Another bucket list item was visiting one or two of the more famous Shinto shrines along our path. Turns out I was able to visit at least 5 on the top of most lists.
Meiji Jingu, Tokyo Founded in 1920
When this Shinto shrine and Buddhist temple was created over 100 years ago, the whole forest was hand planted for the shrine. It includes over 100,000 which were trees donated from people all over Japan. Its grand torii gates are some of the largest in Japan. Each made from 1500-year old cypress trees from Taiwan.
Yasaka Gion, Kyoto Founded in 686 ACE
Originally created to quell pestilence, its a broad forested grounds that was easy to walk, since it was a respite right in the middle of the shopping district, at the far end of the equivalent of 5th Avenue in New York.
Fushimi Inari Shrines (Thousand Torii Gates) Founded 711 ACE
This place is astounding if you’re up for a hike. Hidden among the forest on the south side of Kyoto, this trail climbs three mountain peaks and features endless rows of orange gates. The estimates of the number of gates varies widely, between 3300 and 10,000. The total count depends on whether you include the tiny, bread-box-sized gates or the private ones families have placed along the hidden side paths.
Sumiyoshi Taisha, Osaka, Founded 211 ACE
This is a huge complex, mostly forested, but it also trails into the city, through some city blocks with shrines of all sorts associated with it. Ancient history, architecture, and—most importantly—cats captured my interest. This area stood out as the only place I visited that hosted any cats at all. Many hid in corners watching for people, never letting them get too close. The Nankun-sha shrine in Sumiyoshi serves as the source of the Shōfuku Neko (beckoning lucky cats). Feline imagery covered the grounds: cats appeared on flags, sat as stuffed animals atop sake casks, curled up among hay bales, and occupied prominent displays alongside other forest creatures. The red drum bridge (Sorihashi) was fabulous, and I photographed it from many angles, wishing for a blue sky. Hey you get what you get.
Kinkaju-ji The Gold Temple, Osaka, Founded 1397 ACE
Originally a retirement villa for a shogun (military leader in Japan’s feudal ages), it was converted in top a Buddhist temple after his death. After the shogun’s death, his villa blossomed into a Buddhist temple. I really like the idea that quiet rituals of a pacifist faith replaced the history of military might. So it felt nice to be there. The reflecting pond was fantastic, and the blue sky glowed as the sun came out. The gold you see covers the entirety of the top 2 floors and is real gold leaf!
Japan also let me explore the largest city in the world, one of he oldest capital cities in the world (Kyoto), walk through neighborhoods to feel the flavor of the place, and see how the future lives. From what I saw, Japan is doing pretty well!
